The Most Intense Diving Experience
Isla Mujeres, Mexico
My
exceptional encounter with Sailfish underwater was the most
unexpected event in a 40-year wildlife photography career. It
was an "awe-full" experience, exceeding my wildest expectations -
the images speak for themselves. During three days I found
myself, more than once, speechless and helpless. I ran out of
film after the first 15 minutes during many of the encounters,
leaving me with 30 minutes or more to enjoy the phenomena...
January 19, Isla Mujeres, Mexico... It was
about 10:30am when we went into the water, and in less than 30
seconds from when I rolled backward to the water from on board the
deck of the fishing vessel there were 20 to 30 sailfish buzzing all
around and over the three of us, with such speed, I thought it was
video game only better.
The
next three days were full of mind bending underwater encounters...
It was an experience in true 3D; visually - mesmerizing.
Auditory - fascinating and pleasing. Kinesthetically -
physically challenging. To keep up with the fleeing Sardines
and the Sailfish who fast and gracefully chased Bait Ball, we had to
work hard. I was kicking like a madman for 30 minutes at a
time and some other times even longer. It worth every ounce of
effort I put into it. We kept close to the Bait Ball since
this was the target the Sailfish were after. Being close, I
was rewarded with the sound created by movement in unison of
hundreds of Sardines and the sound of the spectacular rising of the
tall and expansive sail on the back of the billfish, an act of
frightening exhibition toward its prey, merely inches off of my ear.
Visually it was out of this realm; if you can imagine, as many as
six Sailfish at a time filling up your lens and 50 Sailfish or more
passing in front of you like you're not there. A mere few feet
away you observe the sunlight piercing through the first ten feet of
water, reflecting off the Sailfish's uniquely decorated shiny skin
and streamlined body.
This exciting event, forever to be cherished,
happened due to a special friendship with a unique and charismatic
person, a world-class artist, educator, and adventurer, down to
earth and funny - Mr. Guy Harvey.
Guy is one of the world's leading experts on
billfish. Guy's background as a PhD in marine fisheries and
his skills as an illustrator, painter par excellence, photographer
and TV producer have earned him his desired access to the world of
sport fishing. In order to get close to and be in the company
of billfish all around the world, Dr. Harvey has been walking the
fine line between the world of sport fishing and environmentalism by
educating the industry and participating in catch and release
practices.
On
board after one more exhilarating encounter, Guy told me... "in
these three days, after 20 years of being in the company of billfish
all around the world, I learned today how a sailfish uses its bill
as a tool to stun its prey to feed itself efficiently. This is
remarkable in the light of the speed and the elusive movements of
the Brazilian Sardines."
To locate hot fishing, our skipper keeps constant
watch for Frigates-- birds bunched in a funnel-cloud formation
close to the water. "Birds on Bonitos tend to move faster and
jump from spot to spot, while Frigates on Sailfish usually push into
the wind at a steady pace," said Anthony, my trusted skipper.
Hapless Sardine Schools-- some measuring as much as
75 feet (25 meters) in diameter-- may have anywhere from 6 to 100
Sailfish harassing them. Skipper who locates a Bait Ball must
act quickly, but avoid rushing headlong into the fray. We are
on a ticking clock because the phenomenon of Sailfish on the surface
only last as long as the bait fish remain. The sails aren't
simply herding and holding the school; they are feeding and feasting
on Sardines, so the supply keeps dwindling. YOU need to make
your dive passes and put the people in the water in a timely manner.
Once Anthony establishes the bait's direction, he
circles ahead on the upwind side, he makes calculations on the fly,
letting the wind push his baits to the Sailfish as the vessel slips
by and gets close to the Bait Ball (exactly the opposite maneuvering
to what Anthony usually does when he is hired for Bill fishing,
which is his expertise).
Anthony
brings the boat close to the Bait Ball and only when the boat and
the Bait Ball are drifting at the same direction, he puts the vessel
engine in neutral and gives us the OK to leave the vessel as fast as
possible because... Sardines see the hull as a form of shelter and
will always make a run to hide beneath the vessel. For the
divers and photographers that is a gift, however the action is very
fluid and dynamic, as the Sailfish pound the Sardine very hard and
Bait Ball keeps moving and the Sailfish are in pursuit and so we are
in a "catch us if you can" kind of relationship.
"During this time of the hunt and run, the hungry
Sailfish continue to annihilate the Sardines. A large newly
formed Bait Ball moves in a somewhat predictable manner. As
the Sails keep picking away at the bait and the ball is shrinking,
the Sailfish become a bit wilder. They move more quickly and
erratically while darting around to snatch up remnants of the
vanishing baitfish school. Finally they fire through to finish
off the bait, and it's all over'" said Anthony. "We can either
head off to search for more activity or camp out on the spot and
wait for the Sails to bring up more bait..." and they do-- which is
another part of this fresh and amazing phenomenon.
We learn more out of these encounters. back on
board the boat and between dives, Guy and I were exchanging thoughts
and comparing notes. While sitting on the edge of the vessel,
cameras in our hands and scuba tanks on our backs, sun over our
heads and we were dripping water-- we were reflecting on what we
just saw underwater and at the same time we both arrived at the
realization that besides Dolphins and Whales, ( i.e. Cetaceans) no
other aquatic animals do cooperative hunting, harassing and feeding
but Billfish and Sailfish is one in this unique family. That
is very unusual as Billfish is not part of the Cetaceans family and
therefore that is a very significant observation and it will require
further investigation.
All that action was happening just ten feet under
the surface. The continental shelf was below us at 90 - 100
feet deep and visibility ranged from 60 - 100 feet. For three
days Guy Harvey, Guy's trusted cinematographer, Rick Westphal, and I
got going early each morning. It was so early that we boarded
the vessel in darkness and we watched the sun rising an hour later
while we were on our way to the encounter. This meant that we
were the first to be on site. The site was ever changing.
To locate the Bait Ball, we watched the horizon for telltale signs
of Frigate Birds and we raced toward the birds...
The sea was relatively calm, with waves of no more
than 3 -4 feet. Our trusted skipper took us anywhere from 18 -
30 miles offshore. The water was quite warm, about 80F.
And for the curious person who has read so far... we had up to 30
Sailfish around us every day, and on the third day at least 50!
I stopped counting only so I could enjoy the sensation of being the
water weightless with this show in front of my eyes.
Visibility was great in the morning, up to 100 feet, and was still
at 60 by midday. Those of you who know me may not believe
this, but I was speechless, out of film, delighted and exhausted.
I also knew I was committed to return. You can see the results
of my mind-bending experience in the list of images...
In the end, Guy and I become aware of another
phenomena-- what we witness is likely the only cooperative hunting
and feeding we can record among fish-- versus what is a well
documented relationship in the world of Dolphins and among
Cetaceans. Indeed there is still much we can learn of being in
the water and only in a 20 feet zone below the surface.
I'm very thankful to have experienced this
incredible opportunity. I decided to return mainly due to the
dynamic personality of our skipper. He is a professional and
tireless skipper. It's one thing to pinpoint the wildlife, but
it is so much more when you have a skipper who will do whatever it
takes to safely get us the encounter!
For more information and reservations contact Amos
Nachoum,
sailfish@biganimals.com or 415-923-9865.
Ready to join us on this trip?
We recommend early reservation
to avoid disappointment since space is limited and interest is high.
If you know someone who'd like
be interested in this trip, you can email
this link to them.